The Seiko Presage Star Bar Cocktail Time SRE015 is a faceted femme fataleJust how good do you need to be at making cocktails before the Emperor of Japan awards you a Medal of Honor? At least as good as Hisashi Kishi, the owner of Star Bar in Tokyo, and winner of the International Bar Association World Championships. It’s with him that Seiko has collaborated in this recent batch of Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches, a catalogue which now more than ever is starting to resemble the decadent cocktail watches of the early 20th century. The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRE015 is the latest in line, bringing old-school faceting to a modern watch.
The case
photo uploaderAt a glance, you may assume that the SRE015 has a diamond-set bezel, or perhaps a fluted one. However, the bezel is actually smooth, polished, but thin. The glinting of light actually comes from the faceted Hardlex crystal, which used to be a common decorative technique before minimalist styles took over. I think it’s a brilliant way to add texture to the watch affordably, and elevate its apparent status.
There isn’t a whole lot of case to speak of, but that’s exactly what the SRE015 is going for. Small, pin-prick lugs poke out of the round case in a way which is assertively feminine but not overly dainty. It’s 30.3mm in diameter, which definitely suits a small wrist comfortably, but it remains impressive from a distance. A 37mm lug-to-lug length ensures a smooth amount of bracelet drape over the wrist, and the 10.9mm thickness stays proportionate to the overall size. 50 metres of water resistance offers adequate protection, but you probably don’t want to swim with it.
The dial
The Presage Star Bar SRE015 is a breath of fresh air for those who are desperate for thoughtfulness and creativity in feminine watches. Rather than having more mother-of-pearl thrust upon us, Seiko has created this dial to evoke a sense of Tokyo nightlife. The smokey darkness around the perimeter and the cool grey lighting practically transports you to a high-end cocktail bar, and the scuffed texture that creates dancing highlights is supposed to appear like ice in a drink.
Soaring out of that sea of dark texture are the applied hour markers and the dauphine handset, delightfully sharp, and glowing in yellow gold rather than falling for the trap of putting rose gold on anything remotely pretty. The contrast with the dial makes it easy to read the time as intended, and highlights how balanced the dial’s features are. The golden Seiko logo draws more focus than the printed Presage logo as appropriate, and the black date window surrounded by a gilt frame almost melts away into the backdrop.
The movement
The SRE015 is a small watch, so the ubiquitous 4R35 is actually a bit too big. Instead, it uses the 2R05 that has similar specifications in a smaller package. It runs at 21,600vph, has a power reserve of 40 hours, winds automatically, and the seconds are hackable. Thankfully the crown is quite large in relation to the watch, so it’s easy to adjust either the time or the date as desired. There aren’t any bells or whistles, nor would they really be necessary on this watch, making the solid caseback all the more sensible a decision.
The bracelet
The quality of Seiko’s bracelets has improved immeasurably over the last decade, and this one looks particularly beautiful. Its elongated three-link design accentuates the way the width tapers down to the butterfly clasp, which is also milled. The connecting links are brushed for a bit of textural interplay between the rows, and the open space between them promotes more of a jewellery feel than a solid slab of metal. If you’d prefer to wear it on a leather strap or another alternative, the 14mm lug width is more versatile and easy to shop for than you’d think.
The verdict
photo sharingBy no means is the Seiko Presage SRE015 attempting to make any statements about gendered watchmaking, but it’s a fantastic example of what we want to see on the feminine end of things. It’s dark, moody, and even butch in a way that doesn’t compromise its elegance. Between that and the faceted crystal, there are a lot of promising trends I’m hoping to see grow from here.
Seiko Presage Star Bar Limited Edition Cocktail Time SRE015 price and availabilityThe Seiko Presage Star Bar Limited Edition Cocktail Time SRE015 is limited to 6,000 numbered pieces. Price: US$650
